Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 2:15 am Post subject: Synopsis of the Rules
A historically accurate pocket miniatures game based on World War 2.
Basic game is 2 players. There are many variants, optional rules, and even a campaign game. We will deal only with the basic 2 player version here. Also remember that you can play any way you like. We have our own house rules as well. This post is all written in my own words.
One player plays the Allies (USA, Russian, or Other), and the other player will play the Germans (you could also do a post WW2 Cold War battle between the USA and Russia).
You'll each need a deck; tokens or dice to keep track of supply and damage; 6 sided dice; and a play area.
Below is what the battlefield looks like. It does take up space but surprisingly less than other CCGs I've played. There are also various ways to change the setup of the board to save space.
The game comes with a handy dandy reference card that makes everything seem as simple as it is.
SETUP 1) Choose Sides
2) Gather Setup Supply US starts with 21 supply points.
Germans start with 27 supply points. 3) Place Terrain Choose 6 terrain cards. Draw 3 from them at random. Place them in your starting zones. Randomly choose one player's leftover cards and place them randomly in the centre row. Pay terrain cost from setup supply (remember that you can arrange your three starting zones how you please). 4) Assemble Forces Purchase units and special cards with supply costs. Place them in your Headquarters or starting rows. 5) Draw Cards 7 per player. 6) Roll Initiative
7) Roll First Turn Supply
TURN SEQUENCE 1) Reinforcement In any order, Uncommit, return aircraft, Unspot, Roll supply, Draw a card, Check Indefinite cards, Refit, Deploy units. 2) Air Action Launch aircraft and move them to their destinations in any order. Resolve Anti-aircraft fire and interceptions as they occur. 3) Recon Aircraft that will not participate in air strikes or go on CAP return home immediately following their recon attempts. 4) Bombardment Conduct air strikes and artillery bombardments in any order. Return striking aircraft as soon as they finish their strikes. 5) Fire & Maneuver Move and assault in any order.
COMMON SUPPLY COSTS
Defend against assault 1/unit
Assault (infantry) 1/unit
Assault (armour) 2/unit
Fire Artillery 1/unit
launch aircraft 2/unit
Deploy reinforcements varies
Thats the game in a nutshell, below are additional comments to help in the understanding of the game.
This is a simple game. 6 sided dice are used for everything. Target number is always naturally a 5. So 5 or 6 hits/recons/etc. Some things can change the target number like terrain, or rockets, but it is stated clearly. In combat each die that rolls the target number or higher does one damage. In recon, a roll of the target number or higher is a success.
Each unit has 4 attributes. Infantry firepower (inf); Armour firepower (arm); Air Firepower (air); Defense value (def).
For each of the firepowers, that number is how many dice that unit rolls. For defense its how many hits it can take before being destroyed. Some air firepower attributes are grayed out. That means they can only fire on air if someone in their zone was fired upon first (return fire).
If you have any questions please post them and they will be answered as soon as possible.
(Graphics in this post are property of Gina Tremaine) _________________ Vegetarian: An Indian word for 'lousy hunter.'
The only rule you have to be aware of in constructing a deck is that you may not include more than 8 of any one card (meaning duplicate cards with the same picture and colour text - different pictures/text mean it's a different card for this purpose even if the title is the same). So you can have up to eight copies of each version of a card. The U.S. Green Infantry unit is an example.
Tournaments add two more rules. No bridges and only one of each unique card in the deck. This is tournaments only though. In a normal play deck, you can have up to 8 copies of a unique card, but remember that Unique cards may only come into play once per game.
I hope that helps, but do not hesitate to ask any other questions you might have. _________________ Vegetarian: An Indian word for 'lousy hunter.'
What exactly is a "unique" card, I know there are those that are common and uncommon, and rare and I think 3 were promotional. What exactly is a unique card? Thanks again.
I dug my cards out of my closet and I am looking forward to playing and trying to talk some of my gaming friends into giving it a try. I ordered the "book" and the eastern front cards from Studio 2.
Yes, there were three promos as far as I recall. The U.S. Nude Resistance, the German Maus and German V2-Rockets.
Promos also are not allowed in tournaments usually.
Unique isn't to do with card rarity (although they may indeed be rare), but is about gameplay. Simply, a card labeled Unique (it's written on the card itself) may only come into play once per game. Should an identical card come into play, discard it and ignore it's effects.
It should be written with the game effects on the card. The Nude Resistance is Unique. So is Blown Dam, Channel Storm, Divisional Reserve, and Monty Throws a Fit.
I'm glad you dug out your cards. It's a fantastic game (probably the best combat game out there IMO). The Beachhead to Berlin book is also an excellent resource. I'm sure you'll be happy with the Eastern Front cards. It's a complete set. I actually picked up a few of them. Once you tire of WW2, you can play some U.S. vs Russia battles!
Let us know how it goes, don't be afraid to ask more questions.
Of yeah, Welcome to the Triple Oak Leaf Eclectic Forums! I'm glad you've stopped in. Have a look around! We'll grow on you before you know it. _________________ Vegetarian: An Indian word for 'lousy hunter.'
Again thanks for your help.
Is there any place to get singles, I have my cards which came from starters and boosters and a friend of mine gave me all his but there are still some I do not have. I guess I could buy boosters but I am afraid of the plethora of duplicates before I get the few I am looking for.
Another question that comes to mind...Is one set of the Russian front sufficient for a good game?
I think this is it for the questions, I will try some solitare games this week end then bring the game with me to my local gaming store for game night on monday.
I will, I am sure, enjoy this new found resource, keep up the good work!
Jeff
Singles? Not that I'm currently aware of. There used to be a lot in the past. I completed my collection buying singles.
As for building your collection, I actually recommend starter decks to boosters.
The one set of The Russian Front is indeed all you need for a game, but if you want to have the max 8 conscripts and such, you'll need multiple boxes. It really depends on the German/U.S cards you already have and how strong those decks are (or if you can just scan cards in and print your own duplicates).
Each Russian Front box also comes with two Starter decks from the original game.
If you're seeking cards, put up a want list. It can't hurt.
Thanks for the compliment.
Are you taking premade decks for your game night? _________________ Vegetarian: An Indian word for 'lousy hunter.'
I didn't think about the decks I would be using... I have several starter decks, but now that I think about it, all of my cards are in a three ring binder in card pages... oops... is there an available listing for what cards were in the box? Which I guess brings up the question I had... are all the starter boxes set decks and cards. If I bought 4 original starter deck boxes would they be all the same?
I guess I could put two to four decks together just trying to do the best I can. If my russian front gets here in time (hopefully before friday) I guess that would give me several decks to use.
No. The starter decks are random except that they all hold enough for two people to play including terrain.
Some of the games I've enjoyed the most have been a random starter deck and a couple boosters - make the best deck and go.
If you're going to play with new people, you should probably make basic decks for each side ahead of time. Generally you go with a quick Blitz deck for the Germans and a long defensive deck for the U.S. You can always change them later.
Once you get the Beachhead to Berlin book, it has a bunch of neat decks to try. It also has a card list - not including The Russian Front.
Just make sure both sides have aircraft and AA, or simply don't allow aircraft for the first few games. It can be tough if the opponent has aircraft and you have neither aircraft or anti-aircraft. It's unusual, but happens. When teaching the game, sometimes eliminated the aircraft at first makes the short learning curve easier.
Some of these House Rules can make the game go faster and be more fun. _________________ Vegetarian: An Indian word for 'lousy hunter.'
When you say a "quick blitz" deck or a "long defense" deck are they something specific or a way to generally describe the kinds of cards I should look for in making a deck. I take it the book I ordered has some deck suggestions in them. Sorry about all the questions, as I play some solitare games I think all of this will become more obvious.
Never hesitate to ask questions - although we could start different threads for specific things like deck construction. Please, feel at home and ask away. I'm happy to answer questions about a game that's close to my heart.
The German Blitz deck is usually small so that you get the important units quickly. It's a do or die deck. You are set to attack from the start and if you're initial push doesn't work, you're in trouble. There is a tendency to lean on heavy armour and long range artillery.
A basic U.S. deck will be designed to hold off this initial assault and build units slowly to eventually destroy the German after he's spent. Artillery is always important to the Yank. They also have the Airborne ability that can be quite useful if timed right.
The book has Blitz concepts, the Airborne deck, the Artillery deck, and the Air Power deck. Of course, you can also find a happy medium. It's one of those games that's easy to learn, but takes infinity to master.
_________________ Vegetarian: An Indian word for 'lousy hunter.'
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Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 2:15 am Post subject: Synopsis of the Rules
